A Pilgrimage of sorts

Wednesday 2/9/15

Peanut 2001-2016
Took Sandy to Saint Georges on Tuesday 1/09 for a weeks respite care. But I couldn't leave for another 24hrs as I had to take Peanut to the vets for a check up, his diabetes is okay but he has a sore on his leg that needs monitoring, it has come on well and he was given the all clear, for at least another week.
Woohoo

The weather didn't look to promising for the week bloody typical to be  honest we have a few good weeks of weather, but when  I get a week off , it all goes to shit so I would have to just play it by ear for the most part.

I had a basic plan of where to go and what to see.

This was to find the village of  Crook,_County_Durham where my father was born, why you might ask well the truth is I never to know the real Henry Bartels as he died when I was 15 and I just wanted to find out a bit more about him and the Bartels family as a whole.
Living in Africa we never had much physical contact with our extended family and for one reason or another we never really go to know my dads family, more my mothers family
That was until I was contacted through Face Book by  Claudia who it turned out was my cousin, she is the daughter of my dads elder sister Jess, sadly she is the last of the siblings, we had a bit of a reunion earlier on in the year and it was great to meet her and so many of my cousins who prior to that day I never really  knew existed (sorry) it was also great to hear some of the exploits of my father as young boy.
Back to the trip

I had the address of the house where dad was born and the name of the church where he was christened from Aunt Jess,
So basic route was to get north as quick as possible that meant I would Motorway as much as I hate it on a bike this time it was a necessary evil

M3---A34---to Oxford---M40---M1---M18--A1M

Just pass Oxford the weather turned managed to pull into some services and don the army gortex jacket, and even though it absolutely lashed down at times I was dry even my old biker trousers stayed relatively dry thanks mainly to the length of the army jacket, which managed to keep the water off of my crotch so Billy Bob and the Twins stayed dry and relatively warm. My gloves were completely soaked through and to make matters worse the KTM heated grips failed so cold and wet my hands suffered.

Arrived in Crook at about half six, knackered it was time to find a campsite for the night, punched in campsite in the Garmin nearest one was 11 miles away in Durham.  turned out to be a caravan club site, all closed up for the night, but the manager saw me pull up, and came out to chat, he said they don't get many bikes through here but was more than happy to open up and let me camp for the night only after relieving me on several pounds. £10 to be precise

A very nice and tidy site with really good facilities and most importantly HOT showers.

By this time the rain had stopped so I quickly pitched my tent  and prepared the evening meal mother nature must of thought  I could with a little treat as she provided a most spectacular sunset for me, and the next thing thing I know is my little pitch is surrounded all the local grockles and their  fellow caravaners  with their cameras clicking away as my pitch seems to have the best view

It really was like the sky was on fire.

I can't remember the last time I  saw a such a fantastic vibrant sunset, it surely must be when I was last in Africa.

Once I had settled in had a quick shower and  the heavens opened again and that was how it was for the rest of night.


The next morning I woke to damp but clear morning, a quick brew and some energy bars for breakfast and it was time to pack up and head back into Crook. First to find the house dad was born in.






No 4 Elcoat Terrace
Crook
Co Durham

The house is on the main road with nice park close by and only a short walk down the hill into town, the family didn't live there for much longer after dad was born before moving to the Midlands.

St Catherines Church was only a short walk  away



Crook is only a smallish town and as it was turning truly bloody miserable again  
Drizzle to me is the worst type of weather, at least with rain you know it raining you can see it and you get wet, with drizzle you cant always see it but man can you fucking feel it and it gets to you right to the bone.

I had thought  that I might try and get into Scotland on this trip maybe make it up to John O'Groats but with this shittty weather a new plan was to be hatched but not after a bit of riding around the local area. It really  is "Grim oop North"

I took the A69 out of Crook and headed west I thought I would go and find the the highest passes in England as per an article in the Adventure Bike Rider (ABR) mag, and seeing as they are only a few miles away from Crook it would seem rude not too. And so I was of to have a little play in the North Pennines and get to the "Pennine way"

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The passes were single track routes with some fairly steep climbs, nothing to technical, but still took it easy as even on a good day have an accident and you may not be found for a while, and today was not a good day with the miserable bloody weather I might never of been found. I did not see a single car or any other  vehicle for that matter for a couple of hours. 

Wet, tired and not in the best mood thanks to the weather I moved on towards Alston and on to try and find Hadriens wall. There are bits and pieces of it still there although over the centuries much of it has been removed to  build homes and the field boundaries
I did call into the Roman fort museum just for a quick nosey but more importantly to get a warm  as it was freezing cold and my hands were burning with the cold, my spare gloves were now also soaked through and with the heated grips still not working I was beginning to suffer.
Time to find a bike shop and get a some dry, waterproof gloves the nearest one was en route in Carlisle, found the Honda dealers and forked out £60 for a pair of Lindstrands water proof gloves, a lot more than I would normally pay but it was a case of needs must and time would tell if this was a sound investment.

From Carlisle I headed south to taken in the Cumbrian way, another route listed in the ABR mag. going over the Cumbrian mountains I couldn't help but compare this area to the Pennines
The roads in this region are really nice with good sweeping bends, nothing to hard or technical just nice and easy going just what a biker like me wants. I ended up at Coniston water in the lake district, yes the very ones made famous by Donald Campbell and his boat Bluebird
I found a couple of campsites the first one was a caravan club site and well what a truly rude bitch on reception telling me they don't take my sort and I would be better of going somewhere else, when I asked her if she could recommend one her reply was to just go. oh well it takes it sorts to make the world go round.
I jumped back on the bike and used the satnav to find another site this time it gave a site not 2 miles back along the road, so of I set to https://conistonhallcampsite.wordpress.com/
and fuck me if it wasn't actually right next door to the caravan club only separated by a small wood with an interlinking path. What a truly stuck up bitch that woman was.
The campsite was really  a bit rough and ready and it could of definitely done with a bit of a face lift especially the toilet/shower block still they were clean and at only £9.50 for the night
It was a large site and not that busy so I was able to secure myself a nice little sheltered spot well away from the several large groups of youngsters it was either half term in this neck of the woods, or this were just group outings maybe D of E
My tent was still completely drenched from the night before so I pitched and had all open to dry out before I made a diner of "Look what we Found" Moroccan meatballs and couscous.

The tent soon dried out  with the slight breeze coming of the lake, and I was not sure if it was going to be a dry night or not. The only thing to disturb my nights sleep was the owl that decided to use the KTM as a perch screech at the top of his lungs, actually he was probably in the woods behind but in the dead of night it did sound like he was that close.
We had had some rain in the night not much but enough to mean the tent would be packed away wet again.

Next morning I followed Coniston Water down to Ulverston  when I came across this great statue, yes it is Laurel and Hardy. I knew one of them was born in the UK but until then I didn't realise Stan Laurel was born in Ulverston

I followed the A590 towards Lake Windermere and and followed the shore line A592 upto Bowness-on-Windermere this is a really beautiful part of the country very scenic.
will definitely have to get back up to this part of the world again at some stage.

Spent he rest of the day heading south towards Wales decided to take a ride through Liverpool just to see but certainly not to stop. Went through the Mersey tunnel I was surprised at how long it really was and the fact that there bends in the road. For a bike the acoustics were fantastic especially the KTM when I accelerate and suddenly roll off the resulting POP is great at the best of times but in the tunnel WOW.
"Tunnels are the concert halls of bikers" how true this is.

I finally got into Wales and followed the coast road to Colwyn Bay.
By the time I got here it was time to start looking for another campsite again the satnav was put to use not too many close by but there were several options near Betws-y-coed , now that really is a lovely little town but alas all the sites were full so only option was to try a little site further out of town than I hoped I didn't really  fancy camp food again and with the rain coming in I didn't fancy riding back into town for a meal. So after a decent hot shower and yet another camp meal with couscous it was an early night.
Still early night early morning.
Woke Saturday morning and yet again it was damp and dreary all the surrounding hills and mountains were surrounded in a shroud of mist I am assured that on a clear day it is truly beautiful and awe inspiring but not today
One thing I noticed now when I am camping is that in the mornings I much prefer my coffee to tea, whereas when home I must have tea first thing in fact I can hardly stand the smell of coffee first thing at home. (I now hardly take any tea tea with me when I am on a trip)

All packed and with my waterproofs on I set of south the objective for today was to get back into England either North Devon or Somerset no real route just an idea.
First get onto the A470 with its long sweeping bends, to date this is one of my favourite roads.

Stopped at Halton for fuel there was a cafe attached and the smell of the bacon and eggs was to too much for me to resist, so a full English was ordered in Wales??? and boy did it go down well. this was my first meal that wasn't out of a bag since I set off on Tuesday all I have lived on is energy bars an "look what we Found" boil in the bag meals. A diet you can survive on but you certainly wouldn't want to live on

While I waited for my breakfast I took the opportunity to use their free wi-fi to catch up with emails and Face book, well I am sad too say not much had happened and the world seemed to of got on without me.

I left the A470 and headed towards Hay-on-Wye and the A438 the idea was to find Offahs Dyke in the Black Mountains. The road up to the summit and Capel-y-finn was a single track with a few passing places luckily I only met with two cars going up but once at the top the view was out standing.
The road down the other side was just the same a single track with a few passing places but this time there was more traffic which is not much fun when you are riding a fully loaded bike and you meet drivers who some how think that a bike has a reverse gear and they have the gall to moan and look at me like I am some sort of idiot. still once you explain to them nicely what complete morons they are, they actually thank you.
So on into Abergavenny and Monmouth a nice and easy run on into Chepstow and then the Motorway the M48 joining the M5 for the journey past Bristol and into Bridgewater, it was time to get the fuck of the motorway (Yay)



At Bridgewater I joined the A39 and headed along the Coast to Watchet,  found a nice  campsite at Blue Anchor Bay, the most expensive site to date at £14 for the night but again clean and hot showers, I picked a flat spot right on the top of the so I could over look the rest of the camp but more importantly a great view of the bay. Across the valley I could see the neighbouring campsite and i could see that there was a motorcycle side car rally taking place must of been at least 30-40 units.  I Bumped into not literally a few on the way in that afternoon.

I managed to sit out till fairly late as it was a beautiful evening very warm and pleasant especially with a few cans of lager and some biltong.

And Yes it was a dry night my first since leaving home

Sunday morning my last days riding would need to be home sometime tonight to pick Sandy up mid morning on the Monday.
Packing up camp in the dry was a pleasure, it was a chilly start but hey at least it was dry.

Homeward bound but of course this would be the long way home,  South towards Bampton and then across country towards Barnstaple and Bideford  to join the A386 to head south why? well simply because in the atlas this looked to be the twistiest route, it was a nice route but not a great ride to much traffic to start with. Once I reached Tavistock I decided to cut across Dartmoor. Again this is a very beautiful scenic area, I have really had my eyes opened as to how many open and unspoilt areas there are in little old England

Some of the small outcrops of rocks immediatley transported me back to Africa and the Kopjies it certainly helped that it was a very warm and sunny day, it was further helped when I stopped  for a snack of biltong and just sat for about half an hour just contemplating life
 Although the weather hasn't been great in fact it has been overall pretty shit, I have really enjoyed my  time away from the mundane life I lead as a carer for Sandy.
I Have learnt a lot about camping or rather relearned a lot, i have learnt a lot about touring by bike about other people preconceived notions of what it is to be a tourist on a motorbike. A lot of people think we are just Charlie and Ewan wanna Be's or just dirty Hells angel types.  They all seem to see the bike and the biker.

I have learnt what is achievable in a days riding I may have set my  self some unrealistic goals prior to this trip especially in terms of daily achievable mileage. This is England and the biggest problem with England is the sheer volume of traffic on the roads.

I set off for Exeter it as by now a really nice  warm late summer day, and i actually began to regret putting the thermal liner in jacket, but not as much as I would of regretted not putting it in earlier on in the week.

From Exeter it was on to the A30 and into Honiton then the A35 to Bridport, I decided to head on into WestBay  (of Broadchurch fame) for lunch, it was absolutely packed with bikes I forgot that this was a gathering place for bikers on a Sunday  there was everything there from sports bike to cruisers and Starbuck transporters (BMW GS) but there was only one loaded true adventure bike there and that was the mighty KTM known as "Big KT" to many, the amount of weird looks we got . It felt like the stranger walking into a local pub and everyone stops and stares yet no one will say  a word.

I grabbed a quick burger and was actually really glad to get back on the road. I can never really understand biker snobbery sure i have a laff and joke about the GS crowd but hey  if they want to come out and have a jolly  with me then hats of to them.

On the way back on the A30 I had to come past the Dorset Steam Fair which was just kicking out, there was loads of traffic, the majority of cars would pull to the side to let me pass, but there is always one or two who just blatantly refuse to move one inch they need to read the highway code which allows bikes to filter.
I hit another traffic snarl up on the A35 at Ringwood unfortunatley this time the carriage way was closed as another biker had been involved in an accident and the air ambulance was called, hope the rider is OK. Fortunately I just timed it right as i didnt have to long to wait for the Police to reopen the road..

Oh well nearly home time to head through the New Forest  not further incidents until I got past Brockenhurst when I came round a corner and some dumb bitch was having a breakdown after she reversed her car into the ditch trying to turn round. Luckily  for her myself and another couple in a car had stopped to help push her out and with the aid of tow rope on the other car  she was soon on her way again.

Get into Beaulieu and that is backed up with all the cars leaving the auto jumble.  The 60 odd miles from Westbay have taken me nearly 4 an half hours just purely down to the amount of traffic.

Finally arrived home about 7pm time for shower, a chinky a few cans and nice comfy bed.

Stats
Total miles 1339
Total fuel costs £336
Avg  48 mpg












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